The red 2020 Baynos wants to be the expression of the soils of Baños de Ebro, where the soils are poor and rich in clay where they have small plots. For them, this wine is about aromatic depth and delicate red fruit with persistence, silky tannins, tension and freshness. It’s Tempranillo and Graciano with 14% alcohol and a pH of 3.7 from organically and biodynamically farmed vineyards in the process of being certified organic. The destemmed and uncrushed grapes fermented in concrete with indigenous yeasts, where it also underwent malolactic fermentation, and the wine was transferred to new and used 228-liter French oak barrels where it matured for 20 months. It’s surprisingly aromatic with notes of licorice, red fruit and flowers, with structure and finesse, a serious red with fresh and fine tannins, volume, concentration and very good freshness. Balance, finesse and power. 2020 was concentrated by mildew, so I look forward to the 2021 that I sampled from barrel and which had even more freshness. 12,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in July 2022.

A dozen different plots in Baños de Río Ebro, most of them close to Elciego, supply the fruit for this brilliant first release from Bodegas Mauro. Pairing Tempranillo with 10% Graciano and 5% Viura, it’s fresh, detailed and perfumed, with plum and black cherry fruit, very subtle oak, a twist of liquorice, filigree tannins and a fresh, chalky finish. 2024-32.

Frescura y finura en un tinto que transmite carácter de la Sonsierra. Aromas frutales y florales, toque mineral, crianza discreta. Cuerpo medio, fresco, vivo, con relieve, amplio.

Picota violáceo de capa alta. Nítido, aromático, apuntes a frambuesas, arándanos, moras, ahumados, mina de lápiz, tinta china, carbón vegetal, bosque umbrío, grano de café, cedro, etc. Sabroso, esqueleto muy bien armado, excelente frescura, equilibrado, amplio, carácter mineral. Perseverante final sápido que incita a beber.

Dicen que no hay dos sin tres, pues la familia García ya puede sumar cuatro. Y es que, Mariano García, junto a sus hijos Mauro y Eduardo, trasladan su sabiduría a la DOCa Rioja, exactamente a Baños de Ebro. De momento, con este tinto, de viñas viejas en vaso, viticultura ecológica y prácticas biodinámicas, crianza de 20 meses en barrica francesa y maloláctica en depósito de hormigón. Un vino made by García directo, intenso, con la personalidad de zona y viña, y una más que considerable crianza, siempre equilibrada con la fruta. De rica acidez y tanino presente, está armado con la tensión y mineralidad de un gran vino. Todo un “García”: expresividad, variedad, crianza y zona. Todo ello embotellado y etiquetado de manera sobria. Solo añadir: ¡qué ganas de probar su Viura!

The white 2020 Baynos Blanco de Viura had an extended élevage with the idea to produce a vin de garde with complexity, balance and unctuosity. It was produced with Viura that is co-planted in the old vineyards with the red varieties in their plots in Baños de Ebro that are in the process of being certified organic and where they also work biodynamically but won’t seek certification. It fermented in new and used 228-liter French oak barrels with indigenous yeasts, where the wine matured for 20 months. It’s 13.5% alcohol and has a pH of 3.1. 2020 was a year of mildew, so yields were low and the wine is concentrated but kept very good freshness. It went through partial malolactic, and the wine has a spicy nose where the oak is still present. The wine is very expressive, aromatic and in the style of the aged whites rather than the fruit-driven, younger ones. It has a vibrant palate and clean flavors, pungent and with great balance. It looks like it will age nicely in bottle. I tasted a sample that was pending clarification, but save for that, the wine was ready. It feels very Riojan. 3,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in July 2022.

As you’d expect, given the pedigree of the García family of Ribera del Duero fame, this is an impressive first release of old-vine Viura and 10% Malvasía Blanca from 11 parcels. Jasmine and aniseed aromas segue into a palate that has good structure, subtle spices, energetic acidity and layers of citrus, juniper and beeswax. 2024-30.